How fried chicken saved our quarantines

How fried chicken saved our quarantines

In these turbulent, closed and terribly long times, it is sometimes difficult to find something to catch up with to cheer yourself up. There are reruns of films from the Harry Potter saga, or a return Best Chefbut there is another crutch that the French have been able to adapt to overcome the depressive state of everyday life: fried chicken.

In Paris, as in most major French cities, fried chicken has been around for months, and with the onset of the health crisis, its golden age is dawning. If his return to grace was already well underway before the outbreak, his growth has continued to rise ever since. To traditional actors fried chickenexperts and authorities in the field, they were joined by many new players who, in turn, want to offer their version and vision of fried chicken to the general public.

“The idea was to bring a piece of Japansays Arthur Cohen, co-founder of Onii-San, a table designed as any in the heart of Paris. The restaurant chose a hybrid sandwich inspired by two of Japan’s iconic dishes: egg sando (egg sandwich) and karaage sando (classic fried chicken sandwich) as a delivery suggestion. Fried chicken is both lightness and comfort. It is a dish that we all eat in different forms since childhood. It takes us back to a time when things were probably easier.”.

bubble burst

In Paris, as elsewhere, this idea did not come from him alone. Along with Cot Cot, Hero, PiouPiou or Gumbo Yaya, already well established in fried chickensphere, many other chefs and restaurateurs plunged into the adventure in a rather unexpected way. In addition to dark kitchens sniffing out the vein (Out Fry, Birdy Miam Miam, Holychick, 6AM…), famous chefs have also followed suit, like the (very successful) fried chicken from Helen Darroz in Joia or something (less convincingly) Danny Imbroisi in Piuma.

Mori Sakko, the young chef who heads his own neo-star table MoSuke, hasn’t hesitated to include fried chicken on his takeaway menu since the start of his second birth. “The idea came to me quite naturally. It’s simple, I love fried chicken, it’s my favorite street food dish. In fact, I’ve already served it on my tasting menu at a restaurant, he tells us. When we thought about our takeaway offer, MosuGo, it was natural to include it in our offer. It fit the context, people needed such a comforting meal, good, maybe not for the body, but at least for the spirit. And people followed him.

The success of fried chicken in tight times has also been seen on the street in Bangkok. After the opening of a new address, Fry and Beer, specializing in variations of fried chicken and curries, the restaurant’s fried chicken sales increased by 20-30%. “We know that most of the population loves fried chicken. During self-isolation, people can sometimes be a little depressed. So a good burger or fried chicken always lifts their spirits.”assures Norman Colton, the founder of this small empire.

Youth, adults… and retirees

“We expected it to work, but were quickly surprised by the enthusiasm recognizes Mori Sako. From the very beginning, when we launched the takeaway offer, we were inundated with orders – about 250 fried chickens were sold per day. What really surprised me the most was the profile of the people who were in charge. I was waiting for young people like me who come with friends, but we had families … and even pensioners who came to pick up their order right at the restaurant.

In Marseille, Le Bec du Coq has been serving fried chicken since before the health crisis. And each time it was an immediate success when he pointed his nose at the card of the day. So a few days ago Gilham and Victoria, the couple at the head of this diner that opened just a few months ago, decided to bring it back to the weekend menu. “We wanted to change a bit from the pies we offered on the menu, and we wanted to try a different dish that would hold up well in transit. It turns out that in this regard, fried chicken is one of the few dishes that work well. even after ten minutes of walking home. It remains only to put it in a ventilated box through the holes so that the steam does not soften it, Guillem Malissen says

“It’s kind of funny because we had more people than we thought and people we didn’t see too many during pies. So I think there’s a thing in place that makes people addicted to fried chicken.”

The power of fried chicken

If we can now all agree with the real fried chicken craze of recent months, it remains to find a rational explanation for such success. Whoogy’s, a French food videographer and former owner of the house, offered us the start of the answer. Conbini. “Fried chicken is the perfect cure for a bad tomorrow”. And finally, doesn’t confinement look like an endless hangover? he confesses. I also think that chicken has a certain exotic and tourist value for the French.”

“This is not a traditional recipe from our region, and despite people trying to eat more of the locals, I think everyone is dying for a change of scenery. And what better food to let us escape while we’re locked up.” Houses?

“I really don’t know how to explain this infatuation, recognizes Chef Bec du Coq in Marseille. When we included it on the menu, we wondered if people might find it inappropriate to find fried chicken at a wine bar. And in the end it turned out quite the opposite. In the evenings, when we put it on the menu, 2/3 of the tables occupied it, he remembers. I suddenly wondered a little why, and at the moment the only clue I see is the mixture of crunch, fat and salt that we find in perfect proportion in a good fried chicken.

On their YouTube channel, Whoogy’s recently offered a very educational recipe that allows anyone to replicate close-to-perfection fried chicken at home. “I feel that people have been cooking more during self-isolation and delving into technical issues.he said. I’ve seen people cook grilled chicken at best in 2019 and switch to homemade gyoza in 2020.”.

“But frying remains a difficult cooking process to master because without a deep fryer or thermometer, it remains technical. Not to mention the fear of frying in the apartment, for example. we are going to pick it up this afternoon or evening, we say to ourselves: “Karbos?! No, we can warm up.” “Roast chicken??! Ooooh!” End of debate.”

Guilt Slider

Added to this overcoming of obstacles and overcoming this psychological barrier is the demystification of everything that the imaginary fried chicken can convey. “Fried chicken is a real treat, it’s a calorie bomb, we’re not going to lie to each other.Vugis explains. But isolation has shifted the guilt slider to food. It’s becoming socially acceptable to eat a fried chicken burger on Tuesday at lunchtime. Because in my experience, I can tell you that eating a Gambo Yaya Chicken Waffle Burger at noon in the world used to mean you were either unconscious or completely insane.

Now that the fried chicken seems to have finally shed those shackles and the contempt it had to endure, it’s time to take stock. Among the forerunners of fried chicken in Paris, the sudden rush of chefs and restaurateurs who might at times despise this type of food is a mixed bag. “Fried chicken is back in vogue among consumers, so obviously that sounds like opportunism.” free Norman Colton from Bangkok street.

“The fact that completely unselfish people from street food began to eat fried chicken due to, in quotes, opportunism is a good indicatornuance of Mori Sako, who even before offering it in his takeaway offer, was already working on fried chicken in his tasting menu. This suggests that this proposal is working, and above all that the dish is becoming popular in a good way. It’s a little revenge on fried chicken that comes at a time when the ayatollahs of good food may have treated it somewhat badly. This hobby allows us to prove that frying can be useful, if it is not abused, of course. And that you can eat fried chicken without being a well-nourished terrorist.”